The modern Headquarters Building opposite the People’s Park is a sleek affair; award winning for environmental design and a Starbucks on the first floor but it’s clearly not what we’re looking for. Next door small groups in high spirits unfurl red flags for smartphone photos in front of a four-story art deco building from 1929. They do the same in the ground floor lobby and again at the start of an exhibition room, for this place is the Shanghai Workers’ Cultural Palace. We join them for a walk through a one-floor exhibition telling the tale of a youthful Chairman Mao and the struggle of early communist party heroes. The rooms are full of sketches of Mao as a tall young man, his hair neatly parted down the middle, talking with farmers and communist party faithful. A couple of bored security guards hide away in a corner ignoring the visitors. At the end of the exhibition, two walls are covered in colourful post-its where people leave a note and the date of their visit. I left a post-it from ‘Jac of NZ’.